The European Union, bowing to an outcry from traditional vintners, has reversed itself and decreed that the cut-rate technique of mixing red wine with white does not make an authentic rosé and thus cannot be used by Europe’s winemakers.
The decision, announced Monday at the union’s headquarters in Brussels, represented a victory for French winemakers who had risen up against plans by the E.U. agriculture commission to end its ban on mixing as a way to compete with down-market rosés concocted by producers in such countries as Australia and South Africa. More broadly, it was a rare retreat by the forces of globalization and profit margins in the face of resistance from traditional artisans.
“It’s important that we listen to our producers when they are concerned about changes to the regulations,” the union’s agriculture commissioner, Mariann Fischer Boel, said in a communique. “It’s become clear over recent weeks that a majority in our wine sector believe that ending the ban on blending could undermine the image of traditional rosé.”
For winemakers from southern France who regard the production of delicate rosés as their God-given heritage — and livelihood — it has been clear for a lot longer than recent weeks. For ages, they have proclaimed that the only proper way to make rosé wine is to allow grape skins to macerate in the juice for an artfully measured moment before fermentation begins.
Read more: Washington Post
